Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Caviar - A First-Timers Tryst (continued)

Explosive beads of salty warm brine pop

between thy teeth, they squirt upon thy tongue.

In elegant wads they go down the top,

the throat knows not from where these treasures come.

Ecstacy in an ocean of my lust,

equilibrium can now be achieved.

In Rubus Occidentalis we thrust,

in vacuo, in utero, we cleave.

Under the sea I hear only two things,

my own heartbeat and memories of you.

Resurrect my conscious as through a spring,

climaxing for that which remains untrue.


Running full speed toward a bayonet,

I flee disillusionment and regret.

Mark Twain's favorite food

Everyone,
Check out this article from Huffington Post:  http://www.huffingtonpost.com/andrew-beahrs/mark-twains-feast-vanished-foods_b_733586.html .

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Our Daily Bread

During our first week of class, Professor Brittenham had us list movies we've watched about food production. I mentioned a documentary that contained no voice-over narrative or sound track that focused solely on the practices of the food industry. I finally recalled the title of the film.

Our Daily Bread is a 2005 documentary by Nikolaus Geyrhalter that examined the production techniques of some very mainstream companies. Geyrhalter intentionally excluded music and narration to allow you, the viewer, to make conclusions based solely on what you are seeing.

This documentary touched my partner and I; some interesting conversations ensued. I think this is a valuable documentary to watch. It exposes to us something that is vital to our survival, our food, and the way it is produced. We have a strange relationship with food - it is something we touch and experience on a daily basis; we use it to enhance our lives by serving food to guests and at parties, or only to reward ourselves yet it has for so long been this "white noise". Only recently have we become concerned and fascinated with the way our food makes its way to our tables. Maybe this documentary won't surprise or inform you in anyway, but it is still worth watching if only for the feeling of not being told how to feel about what's presented to you.

I have included some clips to whet your appetite:


This clip is more graphic:


These clips focus on meat production, but this documentary also examines vegetables and fruits.

We rented this from Netflix, so look it up if you've got Netflix. If you don't have Netflix, see if you know someone who does, and ask them to get this film for you!

Extra, Extra: Harried Mama Makes Dinner!

As a single mother of two school-aged athletes, I am always on the go. A typical day finds me waking up at 6 am and not stopping until usually 11 or 12 pm. Between classes, homework, mentoring, my sons' school obligations and sports practices and activities, I am rarely home and always tired.


There is, however, a small window of about an hour and a half between the time I get out of class in the afternoon until I shuttle my youngest son to his football practice when I can cook and feed the kids. Some nights, we don't get home from their sports goings-on until after 9 pm. During the first week of school, I'll admit, we ate an embarassing amount of sandwiches. I decided, though, that there's really no reason I can't cook a "real" meal for myself and the boys, even on nights they have practice (Monday through Thursday), and I've begun planning meals on the weekends so this can be possible.


While I've always enjoyed cooking, the years since my divorce have changed the way we share our meals. We still eat together at the table, but now we eat dinner around our busy schedules. We try new things, and the boys help out in the kitchen. I don't sweat it if we end up eating eggs or a sandwich (or an egg sandwich) for dinner, but cooking supper has actually become a nice respite during my busy day.


This evening, I decided to prepare spaghetti with homemade meat sauce, which is one of my boys' favorites. It's a recipe my grandmother, called "Mammaw," created in the late 1950's in an attempt to re-create a meal she had at her favorite restaurant. It's spicy and sweet and oh so good. The sauce only takes about thirty minutes to throw together from start to finish and is even better the second and third day.


I like to listen to music while I work in the kitchen, so sometimes, like tonight, I'll prop my laptop on the counter, open up iTunes, and rock out (or mellow out, or emote, whatever). In case you're wondering, it was a Genius shuffle based on Lissie's "Everywhere I Go," and it was quite mellow. Think Bon Iver and Ingrid Michaelson.

Once the music's going, it's time to get out all the ingredients. I've prepared this meal so many times that I don't even have to think about it anymore; I've written it down so often that I know it by heart. I always spice the meat as it's browning, always put in the dry ingredients first, always the same order, always the same way. Comfortable and familiar, this is my favorite meal to craft. Before I know it, the spaghetti is al dente, the sauce has come together, and it's time to eat.



The boys are called to wash their hands and get their drinks, and we sit together and talk about our days. Some days I may learn about a new girlfriend, others about a particularly hard assignment. Almost always, there's something that's been "forgotten," such as a progress report or a permission slip that needs to be signed, or money needed for tomorrow. This is our time, though, and it is precious.

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Caviar - A First-Timers Tryst

The infatuation was there, growing. I was unaware of its presence, buried deep in my id, swelling toward my ego to be “dealt with”. Experimental for years, I longed for something more exotic, elusive, rare; hard to get. I had tried sardines slathered in tangy mustard, anchovies sloppily bedded with capers and all manner of fresh, melt-in-your-mouth naked sushi. But, I had never had the forbidden fruits of the sea. Before I knew it, I found myself giving in to my curiosity in the middle of the night, indulging on a mouthful of black lumpfish trying desperately to quench my insatiable appetite for culinary companionship.

***leave comments for more***

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Mom's Modern Rice Pudding

One may often ask what the principal components of family, Christmas, or even more abstract ideas such as love, are. It is often the case that such questions are never answered satisfactorily. There is, however a unique opportunity to define these terms, no matter how abstract they are, using the family recipe. As in any literary interpretation, depending on the method of interpretation, context is the key in examining the family recipe, even more so when the object is to define an idea which can have many interpretations. In the case of the cart family; Christmas and even more to the point the love within a family has a simple recipe: two eggs, a half cup of sugar, one fourth a tea spoon of salt, and two cups milk.

Examined in a more concrete light, these ingredients make rice pudding. To be more concise, they make Hazel Cart’s rice pudding or as it is self-titled, Mom’s Rice Pudding, a staple of Christmas dinner for the Cart family. This recipe was young as far as family recipes go, although it is unknown in its exact age as that was never a topic of conversation, but its significance is profound. Within the context of the Cart family, who for many years has put very little emphasis on culture in general and even less on cooking, trans-generational or not, having such a recipe at all is indicative of its importance. It can be easily said that a cultural item such as a family recipe is made more important but the sparse usage of such things. Other than this rice pudding dish, the only culture evident in the Cart family was American, which was mostly indicated by the liberal consumption of burgers and hotdogs, mostly prepared by a fast food establishment. In this light it can be seen that this recipe is one of the very few things that show some of the European background in the Cart family.

When examining the recipe itself it should be noted that the creator refers to herself as “Mom.” This shows a strong orientation towards family, perhaps as far as family being the principal defining factor in the author’s life. It should also be noted that within the family the recipe received the unofficial name of “Mom’s Rice Pudding,” which places even more emphasis on family in relation to the recipe. While the recipe is hand written and personalized, it can be seen from the detail of the instructions that this recipe was never meant to be a secret. Coupled with the emphasis on family this shows that the reason for the creation of this recipe was to spread joy to the Cart family and that this joy should not end with the author. Instead it is meant to be passed on, almost as a gift. The recipe directs the reader, in exacting fashion, how to create the original rice pudding, but at the same time it welcomes changes. This is evidenced by the listing of alternatives within the recipe. For example, four egg yolks may be used instead of two eggs and vanilla may be added if desired. According to Jack Goody in his essay, “Recipe, Prescription, and Experiment,” is a prime example of peasant cooking,

“In this respect peasant cooking is different. Firstly it relies less on precise quantities, which tend to be specified exactly in the written recipe. Secondly, it tends to be less tied to specific ingredients; one can substitute more easily if one does not think one is preparing tripe a la mode de Caen, but simply cooking a dish of tripe for supper. Thirdly, there is more flexibility in regards to preparation,” (Goody).

This connection to peasant cooking is also shown by the fact that, while rice pudding has been a staple of many cultures, it is almost universally a simple dish that is associated with the underclass. This particular recipe is most definitely of the European variety and more specifically it most likely has its roots in English cooking tradition. This shows that the Cart family likely has mundane roots. This of course is a very broad indication of the Cart family’s roots, but given the lack of other cultural or even concrete indicators such as birth certificates and family trees, it is a veritable break-through. It should also be noted the literary significance of rice pudding. It is included in several works and in such works it is mostly served to the downtrodden. For example Charles Dickens used rice pudding in at least one of his works and given the normal subject matter Dickens wrote of, it would hardly be something a king would eat. A more recent example is the use of rice pudding in The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, a novel by Douglass Adams, as a counterpoint to complex tasks or thinking, thus emphasizing its simplicity.

This recipe is a prime example of how context allows for something mundane to take on a greater importance. The care and love associated with this recipe allows a dish, which is essentially the dessert equivalent of meat and potatoes, to be special and to take on meaning beyond the ingredients contained therein. It shows that a family recipe, while largely delicious, can have meaning beyond its taste. In this case the recipe shows the roots of the Cart family. They most likely come from a working class background, with most certainly a European background. The recipe also shows what was important to the writer, family, as well as her willingness to pass it on and allow changes to it. To the writer, Hazel Cart, the feelings associated with the recipe and in turn the dish, were much more important than the actual dish. So to her it was more of a recipe for love and family togetherness, than a simple rice pudding dish.

Two Families, Blending Traditions

First, spread the dough thinly across the breadth of the table.

Something that has become familiar to me in the past few months is casualness with food preparation –

1) stretching homemade dough across a table, healing any breakages or holes that may develop,
2) grinding up beef with diced onions, or instead shredding cheese, and
3) layering these contents lazily to and fro across this large pattern of bread, followed by
4) rolling it all up into one long cylindrical tube of stuffed bread and
5) winding it into a spiral shape in a circular pan to bake for one estimated hour.

My Croatian family calls this pita. These are all the details I have ever received to make it: use either hand-shredded cheese (never told what type of cheese) or “well-seasoned” ground beef (ambiguous) with diced onions, followed by layering the contents across the stretched bread, and so on. Never mind that the recipe for the actual bread – the foundation – is not included!

Recipes have been realized in a more abstract – or at least vague – form, in both of my families. My biological family is a mixture of cultural heritages – what many Americans would call a “mutt” – consisting of, but not limited to: Irish, Native American, Dutch, German and Greek. Of the chosen five (the five greatest percentages in my blood), the two greatest are, calculably, Irish and Greek (though I am the only in my family to really strive to seek out my Irish heritage). My mother refers to herself as Greek, though the last to know the language was her grandfather, as the traditions, too, probably died with him. What is even more interesting, of what we have left to define us, is the food that we eat. For a Grecian family, we eat and prepare a lot of Italian food. Though it cannot be matched by every family tree source, there is expected to be some Italian heritage within my mother’s bloodline; but whether or not there actually is a bloodline streaming from Italy in my family, whether or not many foods carry their similarities between Greece and Italy, the foods we eat are distinctly Italian. I believe this may be a tradition started and continued purely by my mother and myself, however. That I can find, both my mother and father’s sides of the family keep very little contact and certainly do not share recipe cards. Much of what is created within our household can only be repeated by memory between the two of us or if one of us thinks to have the gusto of writing down the recipe as we create it.

This is very similar to my new family’s traditions. My husband, Dragan’s, family is much more “consistent” in their heritage. His mother’s side of the family is half Croatian and half Bosnian, while his father’s side of the family is half Croatian and half Italian (so, his Italian roots are obviously very happy with my cooking choices). Even with the disparity of four cultures in their bloodline, there is still much consistency to be considered. Bosnians and Croatians share not only a country border but many similarities in their cultures and languages (the two practically identical in most ways); and Italians and Croatians have many similarities in their cultures and values – particularly familial values – and some of their food choices, much the same as overlaps in Italian and Grecian foods.

What has been a difficult obstacle for me, however, is their recognition of their heritage and my family’s lack thereof. Dragan’s family remains very close-knit when it comes to family and food. When it comes purely to experimentation when my mom and I do not write down recipes, it is a choice within his family to not write down the recipes but instead rely upon oral tradition. In spending time with his family, I can see how the choice to rely strictly upon oral tradition is a bonding mechanism between family members. In order to learn the recipe they want to use at their next dinner, Dragan’s sister and sister-in-law have to approach his mom, ask her, and then create the meal with her before they can make it themselves. It also acts as a mechanism to maintain privacy within the family, as a form of hierarchy. At family dinners, family members will automatically ask after Dragan’s mom’s pita if she does not prepare it, for they do not know how to make it themselves. I, myself, only know the steps after the dough is made but do not know how to properly prepare the dough (beyond the fact that it is not made in the same fashion as typical bread). Jack Goody, in his essay, “Recipe, Prescription, and Experiment,” describes this as “the mode of preparation [being] deliberately hidden from the outside world…[as] a deliberate way of concealing the secrets of the trade” (85). Though this may have a negative connotation for those outside of recipe-holder’s family, it creates a surprising amount of closeness and safety within the family. While I do not know all the steps yet for the recipe, only knowing a few other recipes at this point, I know that I will continue to learn in steps, to create dishes and meals with Dragan’s mom, which will create stepping stones of encouragement within a less-than-structured means of recipe-keeping.

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Goody, Jack. “Recipe, Prescription, and Experiment.” Food and Culture: A Reader. Eds. Carole Counihan and Penny Van Esterik. New York: Routledge, 1997. 78-90. Print.

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~McKenzie Lynn Sanders